Do-it-yourself metal goats. Wooden goats for a summer residence
I took the construction of the goats out of my head, simply estimating the height at which the roof of the future shed would be located and how I could drag a 6-meter 100x100 mm beam there alone. It turned out that for comfortable work, given my height, the working platform of the construction goats should be at a level of about 2 meters.
In addition to the dimensions, I really wanted to make them as light as possible, since I had to move them alone, so to work as a material, I took a 50x50 mm bar and an inch board for the work site.
Detailed photography during the construction of this uncomplicated structure was not carried out, but I think that the photos below will be quite enough for understanding. As a result, we should get something like these goats.
So, everything is in order.
To begin with, the photo below shows the main dimensions of the goat structure. The drawing turned out not very good, but the main thing is that everything is visible.
I made these building goats not according to the drawing, but in place, therefore the main dimensions are given for reference (approximate), of course they can be changed to your own.
Assembly of the goat structure
First, I decided to make two pairs of "legs" - supports. To do this, I sawed four bars to size (2 meters each) and to make it easier to cut the grooves (not to be confused with the angles of the cuts) for the steps, I nailed the supports of the future goats to the floor logs of the barn. Of course, I nailed it, I said it strongly, you just need to fix them with carnations hammered not to the very top, so that later these nails can be easily pulled out.
I nailed the bars, observing the size between them: at the top (0.7 meters) and the size at the bottom (it turned out 1.02 meters), after which I marked and made cuts under the steps. I tried to make the size between the steps as large as possible (to reduce the number of steps and weight, respectively), but in order not to pull the knee to the chin when climbing there, I got a step of 30 cm.
The cuts were made shallow, about 1 cm. No need to greatly weaken the structure!
I chose the extra tree with a chisel. Of course, cuts can not be done, but I like it when everything looks aesthetically pleasing.
Try to make the size of the cut a couple of millimeters narrower than the width of the bar of steps so that they enter the grooves tightly, do not hang out.
Necessarily, the sharp corner of the bar, where the foot will be placed, round off with a planer. You can see it in the photo below.
After all the steps are screwed, we remove this “pair of legs” from the retaining nails and, for reliability, we put a fixing cross-bracing from the inside of this ladder. I just measured it in place, sawed off and screwed it with screws.
With the second pair of supports, everything is much simpler - I put two transverse steps and secured them with the same fixing slope as the first pair of legs, only in the opposite direction.
From the outer sides of the “legs” at the top, where the platform will be attached, we make cuts under the side bars of the platform.
Making a work site
To do this, we need two bars (1.65 m) and inch boards sawn to the width of the site (70 cm each). We assemble the shield of the platform by fixing the boards to the bars with self-tapping screws.
Important! Leave a small gap of 5-10 mm between the boards of the shield so that there is a place for rainwater to drain.
Putting together construction goats
Now it remains to put the three parts together. These works will be more convenient to carry out "on the side".
We insert the upper ends of the “ladder legs” into the cuts of the platform bars and fix them for the time being with one self-tapping screw on each side so that they can, as it were, “hang out” by changing the angle.
We carry out the same operation with the second pair of "legs".
Well, now you can put the still unfinished goats into working position. By spreading or reducing the support bars, we change the degree of their inclination and achieve a stable position of the goats on the ground.
To consolidate the result, you should immediately install a spacer-limiter between the support with the steps and the second pair of "legs" so that they do not move apart.
Now you can tighten one more self-tapping screw in the places where the working platform is attached to the supports, and also install another side brace-lock. We saw off the extra protruding ends of the brace bar.
Now the construction goats should be put on their side and the ends of the bars that rest on the ground should be cut off at the right angle to the ground.
Also, you can attach small railings, this is optional. It’s somehow more comfortable for me to feel, albeit weak, but support!
Everything, the design is ready and at the end it needs to be treated with fire protection.
The trestles made in this way have been serving me for three years now. With their direct participation, I built not only a barn, but also a house made of timber, which I will write about as soon as I have free time. It can withstand the weight of two people who are even rummaging around there.
So they passed the test as “excellent”, although, of course, they turned out to be rather heavy - it’s not easy to move them alone, even though the wood dried up over time.
To move on loose earth or sand, you can put pieces of linoleum under the legs, as in the photo below.
Surely, in the process of home repair, many of you have come across a situation where it becomes necessary to work under the ceiling, and growth does not allow it - yes, not all of us are giants, and many need adaptations for this purpose. Some people, without thinking twice, take the oldest table in the house as a scaffold, others use stools, laying old doors on them - in general, people solve this issue in different ways. But the most interesting thing is that without even thinking about what they are doing, they invariably make such a device as building goats. They will be discussed in this article, in which, together with the site site, we will study ready-made construction goats sold in stores, and also consider the issue of their self-production.
Homemade construction goats photo
Construction goats: what types can be purchased in the store
Modern industry can offer quite a lot of scaffold variations, but oddly enough, they all come down to two types of products, which can differ from each other in size, assembly methods, material and the presence of certain additions, which should be discussed separately. This will be discussed later, but for now let's get acquainted with two types of devices called "construction goats".
In general, the choice between one or another type of factory-made trestles is very clear and depends more on the types of objects that you are going to repair. If you work exclusively in small ones, then a transformer is quite suitable for you, if we are talking about large objects, then, of course, you cannot do without normal classic scaffolding. Whether you like it or not, but if you decide to professionally engage in repairs, then you will have to purchase construction goats - as an option, you can make them yourself, which will be discussed further.
Do-it-yourself construction goats: wooden disposable scaffolding
This is a one-time option, which after the repair is either disassembled and thrown away, or thrown into a landfill as is - alternatively, disassembled goats can be used for any other purpose. Still, it is wood, and you can always find a use for it. Such goats are made quite simply, and they literally look like a stool.
Basically, everything. It can be said that the home-made building goats are ready, and all that remains to be done before they are fully manufactured is to lay them on the base - the shield. Like everything else, it should be securely fastened with nails or screws.
How to make construction goats with your own hands: a metal version
By and large, this type of home-made construction goats is made in almost exactly the same way - the principle is identical, but the nuances differ. It is for this reason that we will not talk about the sequence of work, but about the subtleties. There are not many.
All other issues related to the independent manufacture of metal construction goats are solved quite simply, and you can easily deal with them on your own. The only thing that should be added at the end of the topic about construction goats is to say a few words about the fences for safe work - they must be laid at the stage of manufacturing side ladders. Just don't tread all the way to the end of the posts and you'll have enough headroom to set up the parapet.
Sawing a large amount of firewood is a laborious task. Anyone who has done this at least once knows for sure that doing it on the ground or in a semi-hanging position is not very convenient. To be frank, after a few bars, such an activity begins to terribly annoy. Nevertheless, there are goats for sawing firewood that can greatly simplify the task and make the work performed less laborious and faster.
Everything ingenious is simple
The goat itself is a fairly simple design, and even a person who has never done such things can do it. Moreover, there are currently several manufacturing options, each of which is suitable for certain cases. Goats can be made of wood or metal. In the first case, the design is very light, and its strength is limited. At the same time, nothing is needed to create it, except for boards, nails, self-tapping screws and a few more simple tools. A metal goat is much stronger and more durable, but it takes more effort and resources to make it. In any case, both the first and the second option take place.
Materials and tools
Before proceeding with the work, it is necessary to acquire materials and tools. First, let's look at how to create a wooden goat. To do this, you need a beam with a section of 100x100 and a length of 110 centimeters under the base. For the "horns" and "legs" they take a bar with a section of 50x50, 36 and 110 centimeters long, respectively. It is also desirable to take care of the amplifiers "legs", which will give stability. To do this, you need an inch board. It is advisable to take two, each - 130 cm.
As for the tool, it will need a little, and everyone can find it. To perform the work, you need a hammer, a chisel, and a hacksaw. You will have to buy 25-35 self-tapping screws, unless, of course, you have them. In addition to all this, it is advisable to have a construction corner with a pencil with you, which will allow you to complete the work more accurately. You can not do without a screwdriver, although a screwdriver is preferable.
General provisions
A wooden goat for firewood should be light, comfortable and durable. It is extremely important to understand here that the design must be adjusted to fit your height. But let's take a closer look at this issue and find out how to make goats for sawing firewood with your own hands. A drawing in this case, or at least a sketch, will be what will help you complete all the work more accurately and quickly.
The cutting height in most cases should not exceed 110 centimeters and be less than 90 cm. So a person does not need to squat or tilt the body too much. If you plan to use a two-handed saw, then you need to take care of the rest of your free hand. In this case, an additional cut timber is placed on the machine, which acts as a stop. But if you are going to work with a chainsaw, then the emphasis will be meaningless, due to the employment of both hands. When working with gasoline or power tools, it is much more important to take care of the maximum log outreach from the goat. So the workpiece will not be clamped, which is almost inevitable when sawing between the goat racks.
Do-it-yourself goats for sawing firewood
The assembly of the machine must be carried out from the legs. Although there are many options, this one is considered the most optimal and simple. In the bars of the cross, where the place of the future connection is located, grooves are made for a stronger fit. Further, the racks are superimposed on each other and fastened with self-tapping screws. The tie bar must also have several grooves, in the future it must be properly nailed to the structure. Cuts need to be knocked out with a chisel and a hammer. Do not forget also that the grooves should be a few millimeters narrower than the beam inserted into them. This will create an interference connection that will be strong enough and reliable.
On the inch bars, markings are made, in the places of which there will be amplifiers. They are needed to ensure the stability of the legs. In principle, do-it-yourself goats for sawing firewood are made quite quickly, but it is extremely important to make all connections of high quality, so do not spare self-tapping screws.
For sawing with a two-handed saw
It is worth noting that the design of such a machine will differ, albeit slightly, but all changes are simply necessary. For example, the use of narrow goats is unacceptable here, since a variable force during the execution of work will lead to overturning. It makes sense to make X-shaped racks from a thick and durable timber with a section of 100 mm. In addition, the screed is recommended to be made of metal. This approach will allow you to secure the goats as much as possible so that they do not loosen during work. The drawing of goats for sawing firewood with a two-handed saw implies a broadening of the lower part of the support. It should be 100-150 mm more than the distance from the surface to the top of the timber. If you used a wooden one, otherwise strengthen the structure additionally with a thin beam. Otherwise, the dimensions remain the same, and only the lower part of the support is subject to changes. If the last element is made in the standard version, then emphasis is placed on the free hand.
Goats for sawing firewood with a chainsaw
A chainsaw is a relatively inexpensive, but at the same time, an effective automatic tool for sawing wood. At first there were no goats made specifically for this kind of equipment, but today they are. The classic X-shaped design is bad because there is a high probability of chain jamming during the cut. It is for this reason that goats that allow free protrusion of the wood are very popular. Most often, metal structures are used that will improve. Modernization consists in the fact that a toothed clamp is installed on one of the ends, which allows you to tightly fix the workpiece. Currently, there are universal devices on sale that have a high-quality clamp, and also completely eliminate ricochet during work. True, the price of such machines starts at 8,000 rubles. That is why it makes sense to engage in the manufacture of such
Metal goat: features and benefits
The main advantages of metal goats are their resource. This is a more durable and strong product that will surely serve you well. In this case, you will need a metal profile with a section of 50x50 mm, as well as a grinder and bolts or a welding machine. In this case, it is desirable to have a pre-prepared drawing and a sketch with dimensions applied. The base beam is cut to size, the joints are marked and the steel elements of the machine are cut. In this case, you can choose any method of connection: both bolted and welded. The latter option is more durable, but you will have to work harder than in the first case. Currently, metal goats for sawing firewood are found in multiple versions. You can find machines of various heights, widths, strengths, etc.
Conclusion
So we figured out in general terms how to make various goats for sawing firewood. Sizes must be selected depending on your height. In any case, work should be comfortable. You can always ennoble the goats. This is usually achieved by using a metal profile instead of a wooden beam for the legs, using narrow boards instead of a log. That, in principle, is all on this topic. Making machine tools with your own hands is good because practically no financial investments are required. In any case, the costs will be incomparable with the market prices for finished goats. In addition, you will gain precious experience that you can use in the future. But remember that at all stages of creating a structure, you need to ensure its strength and reliability.
A goat is a fairly useful device that will come in handy for every owner. Most often, it is used as a stand for sawing firewood.
Of course, buying it in a specialized store is a rather financially costly operation. That is why it is much better to design it yourself.
Interesting! How much wood will be in a cubic meter?
Before we move on to detailed instructions that tell men how to make a goat , let's try to decide what tools we need in the process of this difficult operation.
- Wood is used as a starting material in the process of making a goat, which is why we need to get a circular saw or a hacksaw to work with this material.
- A tape measure and a pencil will come in handy during computational operations.
- Hammer, screwdriver and drill - for installing fasteners.
This completes the list of tools. However, this is far from all, because we have not said a single word about the materials, without which it is impossible to complete the task.
- Twelve screws will be enough to strengthen the structure.
- Do not neglect the nails, thirty-two will be enough for you to create a goat.
- Fourteen bars, of which eight are 700 mm long and six are 800 mm long.
It will not be a secret for anyone, the fact that the manufacture of such a complex structure as a goat is not limited to one operation, rather, on the contrary, it is a set of works aimed at creating a high-quality fixture.
Based on this, it is customary to divide the entire workflow into several stages, then we will consider in detail how to make a goat with our own hands.
How to make a goat with your own hands
· It is quite natural that you may not be able to purchase wooden blocks with regulated dimensions. Therefore, it is very important to give the consumable the required dimensions.
We arm ourselves with a saw or a hacksaw and saw off the wood until it meets the specified dimensions.
· After we have adjusted the bars to size, it's time to fasten them.
Remember, the better the design is fixed, the more significant performance characteristics it will radiate. We arm ourselves with screws and a screwdriver and fasten the bars together.
· Now we are making only the basis for the future goat, in total by this moment you have to spend six bars. Thus, at this stage of work, you should have a similar design ready (see photo).
During the construction, repair and maintenance of a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at a height. With the help of a ladder, not everything can be done, and it is not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.
Homemade wood scaffolding
Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often they are made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all that is needed is a saw, nails / screws, a hammer / screwdriver / screwdriver. The set of tools is uncomplicated, which any owner can find, and if there is nothing, then a lot of money is not required to purchase. Metal in this regard is more difficult. It requires at least some handling skill, the presence of a welding machine, and at least some idea of \u200b\u200bhow. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made of wood.
What to do
Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short time. But for their manufacture it is necessary to use good quality construction wood, with a minimum of knots. Some masters advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and almost do not affect the strength of the board.
But spruce boards are rarely available, but pine is usually enough. It is also possible to make scaffolding from pine boards, but each of them must be checked (in any case, those that go to the racks and flooring). To do this, two columns are added (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. A board is placed on the posts, standing in the middle, they jump on it a couple of times. If there are weak points, the board will break or crack. Withstood - can be used.
It is necessary to speak specifically about the thickness of the board, being tied to the design of scaffolding, the distances between the racks and the planned load. The only thing that can be said is that for racks and flooring, a board with a thickness of 40 mm or 50 mm is most often used, for jibs - 25-30 mm. Such a board can be used in the most detailed construction work, if it is possible not to damage it when dismantling the scaffolding.
Nails or screws
There is always a dispute about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at height, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view, nails are better. They are made of soft metal and under load, they bend, but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, and it is brittle and breaks in the presence of shock or variable loads. For scaffolding, this is critical - there were cases when they fell apart. But this is about "black" screws. If still anodized - yellowish green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not loved due to the fact that it will not work to disassemble the connection quickly and without loss - most often the wood is damaged.
With self-manufacturing of scaffolding, you can do this: initially assemble everything on anodized self-tapping screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each joint. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, trimmings of thin boards can be placed under the nails; whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used for an extended span. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.
Designs and their features
Scaffolding and scaffolding are used for different types of work. For work with light materials, too much load-bearing capacity is not needed. In such cases, add-on scaffolds or scaffolds-envelope are made.
For work on the gables or for exterior decoration of a low one-story house, construction goats are used, on the rungs of which the flooring is laid.
For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - for all these works, full-fledged scaffolding is required.
As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Let's take a closer look at each of these structures.
Side scaffolding
They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply lean against. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter "G", only deployed in different directions.
The figure on the right shows a simple and reliable scaffold design. Their only drawback is that they are not adjustable in height. Convenient, if necessary, for example, to hem roof overhangs, mount or clean a drain, all those works that have a small variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (beams). It is convenient to roll up or lift logs along the edges of the stops.
They are reliable - they can withstand an 11 meter log and three people Construction scaffolds - a simple design
In the picture on the left, an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. It is attractive in that it requires a minimum of building materials; they can be assembled / disassembled / moved in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting it to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.
For the manufacture of triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - for it it is convenient to raise the scaffold to a given height. The upper crossbar is made with a length of 80-100 cm, flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.
In the manufacture of corners, the joint must be positioned so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase the reliability of this node, you can use metal lining in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed with the help of three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.
Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the facade allows, they are nailed; if not, they manage only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other - on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from a bar, a board with a thickness of at least 50 mm, a pipe of solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or a section (for a profiled pipe at least 50 * 40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in a corner, hammered into the ground, additionally fixed by driving in wedges.
To exclude the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. For these jibs, you can use an unedged board, if any, but of sufficient thickness and width.
If it becomes necessary to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed more than 6 meters long), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, removing part of the load.
Now a little about the flooring of these side scaffolding. It is made from a wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is desirable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is highly desirable.
Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos
The options described above are good if the job does not involve the presence of heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to support scaffolding on a wall - any ventilated facade or a multi-layer wall - and you will not be able to install such a structure. In this case, full-fledged forests are made. Their construction is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.
For their device, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. These are two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They must be made on the basis that the minimum more or less comfortable flooring width is 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability racks can be made tapering upwards.
Racks are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding is.
To prevent the scaffolding from falling, they are propped up with boards / beams, one end of which is nailed to the racks (nails), the other is buried in the ground
The crossbeams prevent sideways folding, but there is still the possibility that loose scaffolding could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffold is 2.5-3 meters, this may not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.
If the work will be carried out at high altitude, it is advisable to make a railing. They can be made from a not very thick board, but there should be no knots, as well as cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights feel more confident at the top.
Up to the floor level of the second floor, a standard molding is enough - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - what is on the farm
Construction goats
There is still a way to make light mobile scaffolding - to build the same construction goats, stuffing the crossbars with a certain step, which will be both a ladder and a support for the floorboards.
This version of scaffolding is good, for example, when sheathing a house with siding. Sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean or fix against the wall. Therefore, this option for such a case is the best.
Construction goats - options
Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilt. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases, this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventive treatment.
Types and units of metal scaffolding
When building a house from stone, building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the cheapest type of building material. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put into action - used in further construction. And the metal parts should gather dust in.
But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. The owners of wooden houses still have to use them from time to time: the log house requires maintenance, so once every two or three years, forests are needed. In this case, metal ones are more practical than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.
All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical posts connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:
- Stud forests. They are called so due to the fact that the crossbars with the racks are connected using pins. Pipe sections or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. Such a system is assembled very simply, withstands heavy loads. It is very easy to implement pin scaffolding for buildings of a simple form, bypassing bay windows and ledges is much more difficult.
- Clamp. For racks and crossbars, round pipes are used, which are fastened together with clamps of a special design. The system turns out to be very mobile and mobile, you can easily bypass any curvilinear facades. Minus - limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).
Clamp scaffolding - quick assembly/dismantling
- Frame. Frames of the same size are welded from a round or rectangular pipe. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They are modular and can be easily extended both in height and length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5 / 2 / 2.5 / 3 meters, one section is usually 2 meters in height, the standard depth is 1 m. Some frames have wheels - for easier movement on a flat surface. The connection of elements of the flag type - pins with a slot are welded on the frame, into which the flag is inserted. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on the pin, fixed with a flag. Sections are built up with the help of connecting pipes of smaller diameter, welded to the racks of the frames on one side. With this method, it is important to perfectly match the dimensions of the pipes so that there is no backlash.
Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs
- Wedge. With a general similarity, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. On the jumpers at both ends special locks of the "wolf's mouth" type are welded. The locks are fixed on the disc with a wedge of a special shape. Such scaffolds connect and disconnect quickly, have high mobility, and can be used on facades of complex shapes.
With self-manufacturing of metal scaffolding, pin scaffolding is most often made. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are good only on rectangular facades, to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.
