Start the charger with your own hands. Charging starter

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In winter, starting a car engine can be a problem, especially if the battery is not in the best condition. Of course, you can start from the pusher, but if there is no one around, then it will not be easy to do. In such a situation, a starting-charger for a car can become an output. There are a large number of different models of start-up chargers on sale, but if you want to save a little, you can do it yourself.

A car starter charger is a device that is used to start a car when the battery can't do the job. Its application is extremely simple, because you just need to connect to the battery terminals and start the process of starting the car. To make a device with your own hands, you need to purchase the necessary parts and get ready to work.

Manufacturing features

Making a start-charger with your own hands is quite simple, but you need to have a minimum set of knowledge and skills in handling car electronics. In general, the circuit of such an apparatus is not abstruse, if the transformer is correctly made. It is recommended to use toroidal iron (from LATRA), which will allow you to achieve a minimum weight and size. As for the cross section, it can vary from 230 to 280 mm. Next, you need to proceed to the installation of the winding. However, remember that you need to wrap the edges of the transformer on the magnetic wire in advance.

So, we wrap it with glass or varnished cloth. The primary winding must include up to 290 turns of wire with a diameter of 2.0 mm. As for its type, any wire that has varnish insulation will do. The winding must have 3 turns in combination with the insulation. At the end of the creation of the first winding layer, it is necessary to connect the transformer and measure the current, which should be 200-380 mA. If its strength is less, then you need to remove a few turns, and if more, wind it up. Also take into account the dependence of the number of revolutions and inductive reactance. A slight discrepancy between the turns will lead to a strong decrease in the current strength in the winding. If the transformer is heated, then you need to redo the winding.

From a copper wire with a cross section of not more than 6 mm.kv. you need to make a secondary winding. The wire must have rubber insulation and several windings of 15-17 turns. You need to create a winding simultaneously with two wires, which will provide the necessary symmetry and equal voltage, which ranges from 12 to 13.8 V.

When determining the voltage of the secondary winding, it is recommended to connect to the resistor terminals. Rectifier diodes are used to connect the metal elements of the outer part, while providing fastening and heat dissipation, since the plus of the diode is fixed with a mounting nut.

The starter-charger is connected to the car in parallel with the battery, but for this it is necessary to insulate the stranded wires used for the connection in advance. The most suitable option is copper wires with a cross section of 10 mm2. On the ends of the wires you need to solder special tips. As for the switch contacts, it must be borne in mind that the current strength is transmitted through them at a level of 5 A.

To make a simple start-charger with your own hands is within the power of almost every motorist. The main thing is to clearly follow the instructions and select the correct parts. That is why it is possible to form brief recommendations, among which the main ones are:

• When choosing a transformer, it is necessary to take into account the power reserve. The higher the power, the less the charger will heat up during operation, which will positively affect the service life. If in the future, for some reason, you want to change the device with your own hands and make it more energy-consuming, then you will not need to install another transistor, since the power reserve will be sufficient. Considering that this is the most expensive part, this feature cannot but attract.
• Charging wires can be made from a regular cable, after cleaning the insulation. However, this should be done only in those places where they are connected to the battery. As for the type of wire, it should be made of copper and have excellent insulation. This is very important, because if the cross section of the wires is too small, they will heat up when the car engine starts. For convenience, the wires of the starting-charging device can be made removable with your own hands.
• High voltage wires must also be well insulated. Thus, the wires will be well protected and will not be tangled.

With the onset of the cold season, there comes the problem of difficult starting a cold engine. The main load during start-up is taken by the starter and the battery. To facilitate the life of the battery and facilitate the start of the engine, starting devices are used.

A jump starter can be purchased from an auto parts store. Such starting devices are usually combined with a charger and they are called start-charging devices - this is a plus. The disadvantage of these devices is that the output parameters in the starting mode are very limited and, in the end, the battery receives little help, the battery still takes the main load.

You can make a starting device for a car with your own hands. To do this, you need a transformer or core from a transformer and two diodes. The starting device should be designed for a power of at least 1.4 kW, this power will be enough to start the engine even with a weak battery. To begin with, consider the scheme of the simplest starting device, and this device has shown itself very effectively in the life of motorists.

Let's start from the side of the network, the power cable. The current consumption of the starting device can be up to 7.5 A. For this current, the PVA 2x1.5 wire is quite enough; to ensure a smaller voltage drop in it, it is desirable to use PVA 2x2.5. Switch S1 can be omitted, if it is installed, it must be rated for a current of at least 10 A.

Calculation of the output parameters of the starting device

To start the engine starting device should give at least 100 A at a voltage of 10 ... 14 V. From here you can derive the power of the transformer: 14x100 \u003d 1400 W. A starter of this power is able to start the engine with little or no battery, but without it it is still impossible. At the initial moment of starting, the starter consumes about 200 A, part of this current will give the battery. After spinning the crankshaft, the starter consumes 80 ... 100 A, and this current can already be generated by our do-it-yourself starting device. In comparison, factory-made starters are capable of delivering about half of this current.

The cross section of the transformer core, the part where the windings are wound, is calculated by power, for a given power, the area is 36 cm 2. The cross section of the primary winding wire is at least 1.5 ... 2.0 mm 2. It is good if there is a transformer with similar parameters and an already manufactured primary winding. The secondary winding is completely removed. Then it is necessary to determine the number of turns of the secondary winding. We will do this by selection. We wind 10 turns of wire of any diameter, turn on the transformer in the network and measure it in the network. We measure the voltage and divide by 10, we get the voltage of one turn. Then we divide 12 V by the resulting voltage, we get the number of turns of each arm. We remove the temporary winding. The secondary winding is wound with an insulated copper wire with a cross section of 10 mm 2 or with an aluminum cross section twice as large. If there are no bottom wires, they can be wound in several branches, for example, take two copper wires of 6 mm 2 or four of 2.5 mm 2 each. Next, you need to connect the diodes (you can take it from the welding machine), without biting off the wire, with a margin of 2-3 turns, measure the output voltage. The open-circuit voltage, at the rated mains voltage, should not exceed 13.8 V. If the voltage is higher, it is necessary to unwind the secondary winding, at a low voltage, rewind. When the rated voltage is brought up, the secondary winding leads are shortened to the desired length, and the circuit is assembled to its final state.

Since the output starter has a current of up to 100 A, the output wires and terminals must be rated for this current, it can be used from a welding machine.

For those who like to operate the car in the winter, the use of a starting device is suitable. With this device, you will not only extend the life of your battery, but also be able to start your car in winter, even when the battery is low.

Everyone knows that in cold weather, the battery reduces its output by 25-40%, and if the battery also has a low battery charge, the car may not start at all, due to the complete lack of charge return, which is needed to start the starter in the moment of spinning the cardan shaft of the engine. The starter at the time of scrolling consumes approximately 80A, but at the time of starting, the energy consumption is much higher.

Starter circuit quite simple, but has some nuances in the manufacture of a network transformer. For its manufacture, it is recommended to use toroidal iron from any type of LATR, this will give smaller dimensions and reduce the weight of the launcher. When cutting iron, try to keep its perimeter from 230 to 280mm. Please note that there are different types of transformers and this figure may vary.

Sharp edges on the edges, it is advisable to round off a little with an ordinary file, then wrap it with winding. As a winding, you can use varnished cloth or fiberglass.

The usual winding in the transformer has about 260-290 turns, made of PEV-2 wire, with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm. You can choose any wire, the main thing to consider is that it is insulated with a varnish coating. Distribute the winding evenly, three layers at a time using interlayer insulation. After completing the primary winding, you should connect the transformer to the network and measure the current at idle.

The result should be around 200-380mA. If the current measurement reveals a lower indicator of the presented one, then part of the turns should be unwound, but if the result gave a higher indicator, then, accordingly, you will need to wind a few more turns until you finally get the desired result.

If during the operation of the transformer you detected heating in the area of ​​​​the turns, then it means that interturn short circuits were allowed during the winding, in which case you will need to re-wind.

We wind the secondary winding with stranded, insulated copper wire, the cross section of which should not exceed 6 sq. mm., as an example, you can use the rubber insulating wire PVKV. The winding is performed in 15-18 turns.

We wind the secondary winding simultaneously with two wires, this will help to achieve a more symmetrical winding, which in turn will give the same voltage in both windings.

It is familiar to many of our compatriots, especially those who regularly operate their cars in winter, during frost periods, encounter it. If the engine refuses to start, there are several ways to solve the problem, but one of the most effective options is to use a starting device (PU). How to make a starting device for a car with your own hands and what is its principle of operation, we will describe below.

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Description of the starting device

What is such an engine start system, how does the module work and what is its purpose? Let's briefly consider these questions.

Purpose and functions

The purpose of the car charger is to provide a better engine start. Such a need may arise in different cases, but as practice shows, our compatriots usually face such a problem in cold weather. In addition, most modern charging modules also allow you to charge mobile gadgets - tablets, smartphones and other devices. To do this, they even have additional ports.

Device and principle of operation

Charging modules are of several types:

1. impulse blocks, the principle of operation of which is based on pulsed voltage conversion. In such a module, the voltage first increases under the influence of the current frequency, after which it decreases and is converted. Such devices are usually characterized by low power and, as a rule, are used to recharge a discharged battery. But if the battery charge is very low, while it is cold outside, then in this case, recharging the battery can take quite a long time.
   The main advantages of such blocks include low price, low weight, and compact size. As for the minuses, this is the low power of the module, as well as the complexity of its repair, especially, as practice shows, they can often fail due to unstable voltage.
2. Transformer blocks- in this case, the main element of the device is a transformer used to convert current into voltage. Such charging modules allow you to increase the charge of any battery, regardless of its discharge, even if it is almost full. In addition, devices of this type are immune to voltage drops, they can function in any state. Of the main advantages, it is necessary to highlight the power of the modules and their reliability, as well as unpretentiousness in terms of operation. As for the minuses, this is the high cost, large size and weight.
3. Boosters are another type of blocks. The booster is a portable battery that functions on the principle of a portable unit - first, the booster charges the battery, and the power unit starts from the battery. Boosters can be household or professional, they differ in volume and size. In household boosters, the capacity is quite low, but it is usually enough to start one engine.
   Professional devices are full-fledged chargers that can start several cars, and the on-board network in such machines can be either 12-volt or 24 V. The advantage of boosters lies in their compactness and autonomy, but due to their size, they can only be installed on flat surface.
4. capacitor modules. In this case, the procedure for starting the motor is carried out according to a rather complex principle; powerful capacitor devices are the basis of the circuit of such devices. First of all, they are charged, after which the capacitors transfer the charge to start the motor. Capacitors charge pretty quickly and just as quickly they give up their charge to start the internal combustion engine. As a result of the fact that the cost of such modules is quite high, they are not so popular. Moreover, in practice, their frequent operation can lead to accelerated battery wear (the author of the video is the carpow carpow channel).

Selection Options

The choice of starting device is based on the voltage used in the car battery. Passenger cars usually use 12-volt batteries, tractors use 24-volt batteries. If you are in doubt about what kind of battery you have, then you need to pay attention to the marking of the device - the numbers 12 or 24 should be indicated on it. To ensure the normal start of the power unit, you can purchase an ordinary household remote control, but if you drive a tractor, then for such an internal combustion engine you need to buy a device with a large current.

However, the main parameter to pay attention to is the starting current. The current can be different, it all depends on the specific battery, so in any case you will need to study the marking. It should also be borne in mind that the starting current indicator may be different, especially if the battery is discharged and it is cold outside.

If you have decided on the starting current, then pay attention to the volume of the PU. The choice of volume depends on the conditions in which the PU will be used. For example, for a passenger vehicle, the best option would be to choose a more compact device, the battery life of which will be low. As for the same tractors or SUVs, in this case it is better to give preference to launchers with a large margin. Moreover, the higher this indicator is, the better (the author of the video is the channel Made in the garage).

DIY instructions

If you decide to build a control panel for your car, then at least you should have some experience in electrical engineering. Of course, you can save a significant amount by assembling the device yourself, but you will still need to spend money on its constituent elements.

Briefly consider the process of manufacturing PU at home:

1. First you need a transformer device, its minimum power parameter should be 500 watts.
2. In the primary winding, the cable section must be at least one and a half mm2, as for the secondary winding, it should be removed.
3. After removing the secondary winding, a new one is installed, while you will have to wind the wire around it yourself. The number of turns on the winding may vary - in this case, the choice is made in a practical way. For example, you wind ten turns of wire with any section, after which you will need to connect a transformer device and measure the voltage indicator. The result obtained is eventually divided by ten - thus, you can calculate the voltage on one turn. Then 12 volts should be divided by the number obtained as a result of the measurement - this is how you get the number of turns of one arm.
4. After the calculation manipulations are performed, the secondary winding should be removed and another one should be put in its place, while winding the winding should be done with a wire with a cross section of 10 mm2.
5. The next step is to connect the diode elements. Alternatively, you can use diodes removed from welding equipment. Ultimately, the voltage level at idle should be no more than 12 volts. If, as a result, this indicator is higher or lower, then it will be necessary to either rewind or unwind a certain number of turns.
6. When the voltage is normal, you can proceed to the final stage of completing the assembly. Given the fact that the current parameter at the output of the device will vary around 100 amperes, wires from the same welding equipment can be used as output cables.

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Video "How to make a pre-heater with your own hands?"

Detailed and visual instructions on how to build a pre-heater with your own hands in a garage are presented in the video below (the author of the video is Sergey Kalinov).

Every motorist at least once in his life faced a problem when his vehicle does not start for any reason. The inability to start the engine may be due to the inoperability of certain components, and sometimes the problem is simply a dead battery. Below you can find out how to choose the right starter charger for a car battery and how you can do it yourself.

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Step-by-step guide to choosing a ROM

Today, in Russian auto stores you can find many different pre-start devices from different manufacturers. Each of them is characterized by the presence of certain functions, power, as well as other features. To choose the right starting charger for your car battery, you need to follow a few simple recommendations.

Briefly about them:

1. Functions. First of all, you need to decide whether you really need to buy a starting charger with a motor start function. If you understand that you need such a function, then the choice must be built directly from the ROM. If you just need a charger that will allow you to charge the car battery, then the best option would be to choose a regular charger. Such a device is enough for these purposes, especially since its cost will be much lower compared to ROM.
2. Starting current characteristic. Further, having decided on the device, it is necessary to pay attention to the characteristic of the starting current. This indicator is selected depending on the starting current of the battery installed on the car. It should be noted that the starting currents of cars with diesel engines differ significantly from the current indicators in gasoline cars. Often on sale you can find ROMs that do not allow you to adjust the amount of current, while having the function of an accelerated or normal charge mode. It should be borne in mind that the accelerated mode is carried out with a higher current, respectively, it will be possible to charge the car battery more quickly. However, experts do not recommend using this mode often, as this will affect the battery life.
   As for the normal mode, it is carried out with a lower current indicator, but such charging takes longer. Due to the operation of the normal mode, sulfate is completely dissolved on the plates, respectively, this will have a good effect on the battery capacity. It should be borne in mind that the starting current depends on the capacity of the battery, which determines the ability of the battery to deliver maximum current for thirty seconds. In any case, the characteristics of the purchased device must fully match the characteristics of the battery on the car.
3. Device type. The next step is to decide on the type of ROM for your vehicle. On sale you can find both standalone and networked models. As you understand, autonomous options can function without being connected to the network, they do not need electricity, since they are equipped with a built-in powerful battery. As for the network options, they can only function from the network. And this means that their operation is possible only near the house or in the garage, and then if it has electricity.
4. Availability of additional functionality and control devices is an important point. So that the driver can always know how the charging process is carried out, experts recommend buying devices equipped with built-in voltmeters or ammeters. To date, most of the model options allow for the process of car battery desulfation. When the battery is functioning, insoluble lead crystals form on its internal cells, as a result of which this can cause a short circuit inside the battery cans. In order to remove this plaque and increase the service life of the device, such crystals can be destroyed as a result of exposure to current.
   It should also be taken into account that modern vehicles usually use lead-acid or gel devices. Lead-acid is much more common, so most of the jump start chargers you find on the market are designed to work only with them. As for gel batteries, not all ROMs are suitable for charging such batteries.
5. Temperature selection is an important point. Any launcher has a certain mode of operation, you need to familiarize yourself with this characteristic before choosing a device. The temperature regime determines at what temperatures the device will be able to start the engine. If the problem with starting the engine in your case is relevant in the winter season, then this characteristic cannot be ignored.

Before choosing a device, you need to consider that the device is bought for a long time. Even if today you are the owner of a small car with a battery capacity of 60 Ah, then perhaps in a few years you will have a more powerful car with a more powerful battery. Therefore, in order to properly purchase a ROM, it is advisable to take the device with a margin. If you buy a device designed for a current of 15 amps, this will make it possible to charge even the strongest batteries.

Whatever ROM you choose, you need to take into account that, unlike traditional ROMs, these devices work with high currents. Therefore, it is always necessary to observe safety precautions during operation - the wires are always connected strictly - plus to plus, minus to minus.

DIY instructions

If necessary, you can easily assemble a starting charger for a car at home with your own hands. This will save money, but you need to have certain skills to assemble it yourself. If you have them, then we offer detailed instructions (the author of the video is Anton Buryy).

Materials and equipment

So, if you want to make a do-it-yourself starting battery charger, then first of all you need to make sure that you have everything at hand.

We are talking about the following materials and tools:

• working soldering iron with all consumables;
• textolite tile;
• transformer, you will need a step-down device;
• small fan, can be used from a computer power supply or from a PC case;
• high voltage cable, cross section should be 2-2.5 mm;
• you will also need wires with which the ROM will be connected to the battery, these wires must be equipped with special clamps.

Of course, in addition to this, you must have all the necessary radio components, as well as elements for fastening.

Device assembly process

Now let's go directly to the issue of assembling a starting charger with our own hands in accordance with the diagram. There can be many schemes, you can find dozens of different schemes in the network. We bring to your attention one of the simplest schemes that will allow you to assemble it yourself.

1. Do-it-yourself assembly of the device is carried out on a textolite tile that you have prepared in advance, its size must be appropriate. One of the most basic and largest elements of a starting battery charger is a transformer, so we will start with it. In the textolite tile, using a drill, it is necessary to drill holes of the required size into which fasteners and wiring will be installed.
2. During operation, rectifier diodes can get very hot, so you need to think about normal cooling for them in advance. For example, special iron cooling elements (so-called shirts) can be used for these purposes. Sometimes mounting metal jackets may not be enough to keep the rectifier diodes cool. In this case, you will need the same fan that you removed from the old computer case or power supply. If there is no such fan, then you can use devices for removing heat from the computer processor, a radiator. In order for a do-it-yourself starting charger to remove heat, the case must first be equipped with appropriate heat-removing louvers.
3. According to many motorists, a do-it-yourself starting battery charger does not have to be installed in the case at all. But if you have already assembled the device, is it really difficult to equip it with a case? Moreover, it is the case that allows you to protect the battery charger from various external influences, which is especially important if you plan to carry the device with you in the car. Moreover, when working with ROM, the driver will be protected from the effects of current, and this is important.
4. To equip the case, you can use a box of appropriate sizes. For example, it can be a case from an old desktop computer. You will have to modify it a little, but in the end you will get a full-fledged do-it-yourself starting charger. In addition, all indicators and switches, as well as other control components, can be installed on the front of the computer case. Learn more about how to make an adjustable ROM with your own hands in the video. The author of the video, valeriyvalki, states that even a person who does not have knowledge in the field of radio electronics can cope with such a task.

Of course, if you decide to start such an important process, then you will want the device you made to last for a long time and you can rely on it at any time. Achieving this is sometimes difficult, especially if you have no experience in making such devices and you are faced with this for the first time.

So, in order to do everything right with your own hands, you need to take into account some recommendations, we will talk about them below:

1. First, it is necessary to responsibly approach the choice of a transformer. You need to choose such a device so that it has a good power reserve. If the device is more powerful, then during operation, when the vehicle battery is charged, it will heat up less. Accordingly, the service life of such a device will be higher. In the event that in the future you suddenly decide to upgrade your ROM, making it more functional and, accordingly, more energy-intensive, then more power will also be in your favor. Thanks to the high power, you do not have to buy a new transformer or reassemble it. Remember that the transformer is one of the main components of any ROM. You also need to take into account that the transformer itself must be of high quality, if you see that its condition is deplorable, then it is better not to use such an element for making a ROM. Otherwise, you can even harm the car battery.
2. An equally important component of the circuit of any ROM are high voltage wires. When purchasing such wires, it is necessary to make a choice in favor of elements characterized by excellent insulation. First of all, insulation is an excellent protection for wiring from possible external influences. In addition, high voltage cables will not be as tangled as regular wires, and this will greatly simplify the ROM assembly procedure.
3. If you have a problem with the choice of cables for charging and connecting to the battery, then this problem can be solved. Such wires can be built independently by cutting off a certain part of the insulating layer on the cable, in particular, at the point of connection to the ROM and battery. Soft copper wire can be used as a cable, of course, it must have excellent insulation, which will avoid possible problems. When you have to force start the engine, a cable with a poor section will start to heat up quickly, and accordingly, the insulation may also begin to lose its characteristics. As a result, this may cause a short circuit. Therefore, immediately make sure that the cables for starting the motor are removable, in this case, using the device will be more convenient.
4. Please note that the fan that will perform the cooling function is operational. Cooling during starter operation is very important. If the ROM is not cooled properly, then it will overheat during operation, respectively, this may be fraught with certain problems.
5. If you are faced with the issue of arranging such a system for the first time, then it is desirable to make the scheme as simple as possible. Connecting circuits that are too complex can confuse you, and if some actions are performed incorrectly, this can lead to a short circuit, which will negatively affect the battery’s condition as a whole. If you doubt that you will be able to perform all the steps correctly and eventually get a device that you can use, then buying a new ROM is the best option.

Video "Production of a start-up charger at home"

You can learn more about developing a circuit and creating a ROM with your own hands from improvised means from the video below (the author of the video is Evseenko Technology).