The main thing is that the suit fits. Uzbekistan

The traditional costume tells about the history and characteristics of the nation. It has been formed over the centuries, which means that by carefully studying it, you can trace the whole life of the people.

A bit of history

Uzbeks are a people with a rich history and interesting traditions. Being visiting Uzbeks, you will definitely be given tea and believe me, tea drinking will not end with one cup. And pouring another cup, they will ask: with respect or without? Do not be surprised that if you answer in the affirmative, only the bottom of the cup will be covered with tea. Such are the traditions of hospitality and the host will be happy to pour tea to the dearest guest.

Uzbeks are friendly and patient people. Confessing Islam, Uzbeks respect each faith. Their own confession prescribes daily prayer, for which it is necessary to dress in closed and comfortable clothes. So, under the influence of faith, the Uzbek national costume was created.

Peculiarities

The Uzbek costume is easy to distinguish from any other, because there are features in it that correspond exclusively to Uzbeks.

Colors and shades

The color scheme of the national costume varied depending on the location of the Uzbeks. Thus, the Surkhandarya region was famous for its red color scheme. An interesting fact is that, despite the color peculiarities in each region, no one wore black and dark blue suits for fear of attracting bad luck.

The palette of colors in women's clothing betrayed not only the delicate taste of beauties, but also their position in society. For example, ladies whose husbands held a high position dressed in clothes in blue and purple hues, artisans in green.

Fabrics and fit

The Uzbek people love rich fabrics. For example, the top of national robes is made of velvet or corduroy. It is worth saying that dressing gowns were worn not only in summer, but also in the cool season, and this could not but affect the types of fabric. So, warm models of robe-chapan are insulated with a layer of camel wool or cotton wool.

The cut of the national costume was simple and did not differ by sex and age. In most cases, clothes were sewn from straight pieces of fabric; in small remote villages, this fabric was not even cut, but torn along a straight thread.

Later, for a shirt, a straight piece of fabric was bent, creating the front and back parts, additional pieces were sewn to the sides, and a gusset was placed under the armpit. It is worth saying that the pants were the result of skillful stitching of straight pieces of fabric.

Varieties

Despite the similarity in cut, men's and women's suits have their own fundamental features.

• The first important element for men is a chapan. This quilted bathrobe is designed not only for the home, but also for everyday life and even celebrations. Festive models are decorated with rich embroidery with gold threads. Replaces a dressing gown and outerwear, if it has a heater. Interestingly, colorful chapans are still popular far beyond the borders of Uzbekistan, they become an expensive gift for beloved men and colleagues.

A shirt is an integral part of the Uzbek wardrobe. Her first models were sewn in length to the knees, but now you can find a more comfortable length to the middle of the thigh. Referred to as a kuilak, it can have a vertical neckline to the chest line or a horizontal neckline from shoulder to shoulder.

Wide trousers are an obligatory part of the Uzbek costume. From top to bottom, trousers are narrowed, providing convenience during walking.

A man's shirt or dressing gown is girded with a wide belt, which, it is worth saying, deserves admiration in some models. Belts for celebrations are made of luxurious velvet, decorated with beads, symbolic embroidery and complemented with amulets.

• Woman suit Uzbek beauties consisted of a tunic-like dress. The first models reliably covered the entire body and reached the length of the ankles. The dress was made using straight pieces of fabric and was not much different from a men's shirt. Later, a feminine yoke and gathered cuffs appeared on the dress.

In addition to the dress, the Uzbek woman also wore wide trousers without fail. They were distinguished from men by a hem decorated with braid. The same chapan served as outerwear. After some time, women began to dress in a camisole, as well as in feminine vests.

• Children's national costume similar to male and female. Often the choice is stopped at the factory options. Knitted suits are especially popular. An amulet is attached to the headdress of the child, protecting from the evil eye.

Accessories and shoes

If the costume, according to the canons of Islam, should be restrained, then Uzbek women are not limited in jewelry. Gold and silver in the form of earrings, bracelets and rings are an essential attribute of the Uzbek image. Symbols and amulets are applied to gold jewelry, protecting a woman and her family.

Speaking of headdresses, initially the woman was wearing a veil. Black was the everyday choice. It is interesting, but they preferred to wear it exclusively when leaving the gates of their own house, afraid to attract adversity to the family with black. Later, the veil was replaced by scarves and skullcaps-duppi.

Each of us once had the first chapan. Not a tribute to fashion, no. A vital necessity. I remember my first chapan. When I was going to my first student cotton, my parents bought it for me at the Central Department Store, in the souvenir department. There was a hanger with good blue Tashkent chapans in the corner. The battle chapan is still alive. I wear it outside on a cold morning.

Each time, regretfully throwing off the warm soft chapan, I regretted that it was no longer customary to wear a chapan to a feast and to the world. Moreover, women's chapan has not been bought for a long time. It can only be ordered.

I remember that about five years ago I bought a simple short coat in Bukhara, sewn using the Uzbek chapan technique. She wore it with pleasure. In Tashkent, he was a curiosity. Even Uzbek sellers in Tashkent bazaars, looking at my clothes, exclaimed: “This is a chapan! Where did you get one like this?!"

To my delight, there are more and more women's clothes in the chapan style in Tashkent every year. And he no longer surprises anyone. It is worn everywhere, both in everyday affairs, and at official meetings, and in offices.

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Of course, the models and finishes have become modern. But the most important thing is that the essence quilted on cotton wool remains unchanged. At every exhibition of national clothes, I certainly look for craftswomen who create clothes “under the Uzbek chapan”.

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She has a huge selection of chapanchikov.

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In the front part of her chapan-jackets, exclusively national fabrics were used: adras, satin and besasab.

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About the "front part" I hurried to say this. The fact is that Manzura-opa sews two-in-one chapan-jackets. That is, two-sided:

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For example - on top of moderate adras flowers. You turn it inside out, and there is a bright juicy snipe.

1 min read

Designer Zhumagul Sariyeva turned the traditional outerwear of nomads - chapan - into a fashionable wardrobe item. From heavy warm coats, she turned them into fashionable bright raincoats with unique ornaments.

From May to July 2016, designer Zhumagul Sarieva held exhibitions in San Francisco, USA and Strasbourg, France, and introduced the world to a modern interpretation of the chapan - the traditional warm Kyrgyz outerwear - a quilted cotton coat.

“If we want our chapan to travel with us in the modern world, we must stylize, modify it. I think you shouldn't be afraid to go too far from the standards in your ideas. This is a style and, of course, it changes over time,” says the designer.

Sariyeva's modern chapans appear in a lightweight form - they are sewn from quilted cotton according to the latest trends in world fashion. Now this is not a shapeless burlap, but bold, well-thought-out models that combine ethnographic motifs and the latest fashionable styles. Most chapans are sewn similar to designer dresses or light sleeveless jackets.

The range of colors of the latest collection starts with trendy pale pink and ends with turquoise, but the designer is not limited to pastel colors.

In her other collections, she experiments with bright and dark colors. The latest collection of the author has earned prizes and awards in Europe and Asia. Men's models that were presented at the fashion week in Strasbourg, France. After participating in the show, Sariyeva's chapanas were included in the catalog of the best works of the Strasbourg Fashion Week.

The designer works with the fabric, inventing once again unique ornaments for each individual option. Work on one model can take about two months.

“For each client, we try to make a special ornament. This is a very painstaking work [...]. I analyze the character of a person, then I make sketches,” says Sarieva.

Thanks to the new tailoring technology, the chapan has become an all-season element of outerwear. It can be easily combined with any shoes and accessories according to the client's taste. The shape and texture of chapans can also be chosen according to taste and desire.

The price of chapans starts from six thousand soms and depends on the complexity of the order.

Now these are not heavy coats designed to keep you warm in severe frosts, but light and dynamic all-weather raincoats. Blue, green, golden and pale pink, chapans are sewn both voluminous, with fasteners on the back, and narrow, with a variety of ornaments.

In the past, the chapan was worn over clothing by both men and women. This type of outerwear was popular among the peoples of Central Asia and Afghanistan. Traditional chapans were sewn from cotton wool or camel wool with a cotton lining, and on top it was embroidered with velvet or cloth.

Video: Tilek Beishenaly uulu, Azat Ruziev, Rachel Milani

http://www.naison.tj/PRIKL_ISSK/vishivka/RAVIGOR/p02.shtml
http://andijan.connect.uz/doppi/jentub.html
http://moikompas.ru/compas/clothesturkmen
.... follow the links

Traditional Uzbek clothing excludes any plain fabrics. Even mourning robes are not just black or white like those of other nations, but dark tones, but with very small, discreet colors. In national clothes you will see a lot of bright, colorful flowers, an abundance of jewelry, some of which weigh several kg. But the colors are different everywhere.

The Bukhara national costumes, famous for their gold embroidery masters, are dominated by bright dark blue tones, on which golden patterns look especially impressive. The styles of women's dresses are moderately narrow, knee-length trapezoid, or rectangles. Tajik dresses are shorter. Skullcaps are also decorated with gold embroidery and beads. Men's skullcaps are often velvet, dark tones. Dark green, black, dark blue, no embroidery.

Surkhandarya - clothes are dominated by straight multi-colored lines, bright and somewhat rough colors. Patterns more include circles, octahedrons, ornament. Large patterns. Very unique coloring. Skullcaps are also round in shape, similar colors. Moreover, men also wear colorful skullcaps here.
Khorezm - clothes made of light flowing fabrics flying apart from the slightest breath of wind. The original headdress for women is skullcaps with an abundance of small scales that ring at every step, decorated with a feather. Bracelets, long (up to the waist) hanging jewelry (more than beads), which also ring. Men's hats are sheepskin hats.

They exceed the volume of a human head several times. Surprisingly warm. But, strangely, they are worn not only in winter, but all year round. Only the Khorezmians know the secret.

Samarkand is a mixed culture. Bukhara skullcaps, Khorezm vests.

Kokand - distinguished by men's skullcaps - traditional black, square, with a white pattern on each side, but high. If in Tashkent the male skullcap sits tightly on the head, then the Kokand one rises at least 5 cm above the head.

Fergana: women's headdresses are beautiful scarves tied like a crown. Khan-atlas dresses.

Tashkent - Dresses from khan atlas are obligatory for every woman (it doesn’t matter if she wears it or not). Men wear chapans or chekmeni. Tashkenters borrow other clothes from other regions. Globalization is doing its job smile.gif

In Tashkent, national clothes are the least colorful. Or the least frilly? This, as they say, is again a matter of taste.

By the way, about colorful bloomers, in which all oriental women go, judging by the cinema. In general, bloomers previously performed the same function as pantaloons, and it was considered very indecent to flaunt them. It was only later, after the general expansion of miniskirts, that traditional dresses became shorter, and peeking out from under the skirts of bloomers began to be considered beautiful, and then modest.

My grandmother (an aristocrat to the marrow of her bones) could not come to terms with this, and looked very condemningly at women who were so<неопрятны>in clothes.

And her clothes always reflected strictly the 19th century - a long wide dress with a yoke, delicate flourishes, a white scarf always tied with such casual elegance that she always had to touch it up with a graceful gesture. A loose waistcoat slightly widened at the bottom, which she never fastened.

In general, fashion also influences national clothes, and they, of course, are no longer the same as they were many centuries ago. But some details, such as patterns, fabrics, and a general cut, have been preserved.

To be honest, I did not prepare for this flash mob, but I really wanted to. Take the impromptu. I do not pretend to be the truth, therefore, if you find inconsistencies or fantasies, you can safely make comments and even scold.
Women

Women's national costume consists of a robe, a functional dress of simple cut made of khan-atlas, and harem pants - wide thin trousers, narrowed at the bottom. The headdress of a woman consisted of three main elements: a cap, a scarf and a turban. A festive women's costume differs from the everyday one by the quality factor and the beauty of the fabrics from which it is made. Children's clothes repeated the forms of clothes of adults. Along with common features, the clothing of each region or tribe had its own originality, expressed in the fabric used, the shape of the cut, etc.

And yes, the dress. The dress was necessarily long, wide. Since childhood, I have heard that modern women consider a dress with a yoke, mostly round, with or without a collar, solid or in two parts, layered on top of each other in the center, to be the national Uzbek dress.

I even found a detailed description of the pattern of the Uzbek dress

Pants/harem pants were always attached to the dress. It always seemed to me that they should be longer than the dress. I don't know the exact reason. Maybe in order to see the border around the edge. Maybe in order to make it clear that they are (that is, the tradition is observed) Or maybe simply because a long wide dress can be stepped on when tilted, and therefore it was made shorter.
This is the lace for the bottom of the panties.

The festive national costume differs from the everyday one by the beauty and richness of the fabrics and embroideries used.

My love for filming without people played a cruel joke on me. I have almost no worthy examples from life, mostly from behind

Bathrobes. Simple everyday clothes on cotton wool served exclusively for warmth (one of my classmates brought a chapan, goes here in the country on cold days and claims that this is the most comfortable clothes) Holiday ones were distinguished by embroidery with gold threads, expensive fabrics (velvet was very respected), and other beautiful excesses .

We look at the background, not at the foreground (Samarkand. Registan)

Skullcaps. How many regions, so many varieties of skullcaps. Moreover, earlier, if I understood correctly, headdresses were very different from the modern skullcap.

The skullcap (from the Turkic "tyube" - top, top) is the national headdress not only of Uzbeks, but also of other Central Asian peoples. Skullcaps differ by type: men's, women's, children's, for the elderly

Chust skullcaps are the most popular in many regions of Uzbekistan. Duppi - the most common type of skullcaps in the city of Chust - is characterized by a black background and a white pattern in the form of four pods of pepper - "kalampir"; The band is embroidered with arches arranged in a row. There are three types of duppy - rounded, square-rounded and cap, elongated upwards. Chust duppi (black background and embroidered white pattern) are distinguished by the “coolness” of the ornament (full almond with a short and sharply bent tendril) and a significant height of the band

At the Samarkand bazaar in a row of skullcaps

Vests were worn for festive attire
And there is a pattern too!

In the Ferghana Valley, the vest has lengthened

Shoes. Ichigi - soft boots made of leather without a heel and boots made of rough leather or rubber. Among modern Uzbeks, I would call galoshes, besides ichigs, national shoes!

And separately I wanted to tell you about the veil. And you know, as a child, I met grandmothers in a real veil! In the old city, they occasionally sold seeds. The feeling is this: someone is sitting wrapped in a blanket, and also covered with a robe on top, only the robe is not on the shoulders, but on the head. I remember that in the slit of the dressing gown there was something dark, through which nothing could be seen. My dad told me that this is a mesh, that it is woven from horsehair. But I’m small, I thought that the word “woven” simply meant weaving, like gauze. And only in May I saw a real veil nearby, however, through the glass. Look, I have no idea HOW they could even be there. Imagine the heat is more than 40 degrees, and you are wearing thick-dense clothes over your usual clothes, through which it’s not even clear how to breathe, a thing made of horsehair, and a thick robe on top ...
It was very difficult to photograph through the glass, but try to see her

Men

The basis of the national men's costume is a chapan - a quilted robe, which is tied with a waist scarf - kiyikcha. The traditional headdress is a skullcap. A kuilak is put on the body - a men's undershirt of a straight cut, and an ishton - wide trousers that taper to the bottom. Feet are shod in boots made of thin leather.
Belts in full dress are often very elegant - velvet or embroidered, with silver patterned plaques and buckles. Everyday kuilak was girded with a long scarf-like sash.

Who knows what it is?

I also found carnival costumes, don't ask the price, I didn't look for it.
Especially touched by the shoes!

And here, not only the shoes please, but also the Pavlovo Posad shawl! (I do not say, but it seemed to me so) And this is not the most important thing. This photo is on the page.